Bahama Weather Blues

December 16, 2004
By Tom

Friday, December 10, 2004 - Allens Cay, Allens Cay, Exumas

Today was spent mostly in the water in search of aquatic life forms. We did not succeed. In fact the only thing we managed to do was lose one of our two pole spears. I'm not exactly sure how it happened.

We were out on the banks and it was rolling pretty hard. One minute our second spear was in the dinghy floor, the next it wasn't. I think the fish might have been trying to exact some measure of revenge after yesterdays bloodshed. Oh well, the hunt continues.

I made Grouper Fingers for lunch and they were excellent. After about twenty tries, our breading of choice for fried fish is one half cup of Bisquick, one teaspoon of sugar and enough milk or water to make the mix into a heavy paste. Dredge the fish pieces through the mix and pack it around the fillet. Fry 90 seconds on each side and serve with lemon juice or vinegar.

We spent the remainder of the day working on small boat projects. I rewired my deck wash down pump and Amy attacked pin mold on the salon ceiling liner. The inside cabin now smells lemony fresh.

Keeping with our fish theme, we had fried Bar Jack and Chips (french fries) with vinegar for dinner.

All in all, a very fishy day.

Saturday, December 11, 2004 - Allens Cay, Allens Cay, Exumas

A large cold front is predicted to move through tonight and all of the boats (13) in our anchorage are getting ready for a pretty serious blow. We made sure our boat was ready and then went out to dive some reefs on the ocean side of Allen's.

The first two spots we selected were too deep and the current was moving too fast. The third spot turned out to be much better. We found a 200 foot wall of coral heads extending from 10 feet down to the bottom at around 20 feet. There was a ton of life forms.

I don't think I mentioned it before, but in our quest to perfect our spear fishing activities, we have both committed the tasty species of fish to memory and can now identify them on sight. We even have little flash cards with pictures we practice in the dinghy.

It's kind of like those training films you see of cops. The cardboard cut out pop up and the copper has like 2 seconds to decide whether or not to shoot? You know the ones I'm talking about.

Well practiced we entered the fray. I immediately started stalking the ever elusive Schoolmaster Snappers. True to their name, they hang out in schools of 2 or 3 up to as many as 50. I chased and chased and they stayed just out of reach. Finally I tried acting like a bus (you know School-masters) and I was able to get with in firing range.

WHAMMO ! Right through the head. I'm having fish for dinner.

When the smoke cleared and all was said and done, I managed a 1 1/2 lbs Schoolmaster as well as a smallish Margate. The Margate was an innocent bystander. I was drawing down on another Schoolmaster when the little bastard darted right into the line of fire.

Oooops. My bad. Sorry about that. Unfortunately for Mr. Margate, he sustained a pretty serious injury to upper swimming fin and consequently he got to ride in the fish bag back to the mother ship.

Later, it was spaghetti for dinner. We were both fished out, so the fish are on ice in the freezer section.

We are now waiting on the front to show up and I guess we'll see how bad it gets.

Sunday, December 12, 2004 - Allens Cay, Allens Cay, Exumas

Woke up at 2 am this morning to the sound of our hull pounding in to the sand. AHHHHHHHHH!

As those of you out there who are familiar with boats know, this is not good. The wind was up over 20 knots and there were three foot swells running through our anchorage. We weren't in any real danger, we had not drug anchor, but the high wind pushed enough water out of the anchorage that we found our skegs (under part of boat that holds and protects rudders) were touching sand in the trough of really big waves.

Rather than wait for first light, we decided to pull up anchor and slide the boat forward 100 feet into deeper water. We mapped at our plan and other than having to scream at each other to be heard over the wind, we re-anchored with little difficulty.

Please note dear reader, that our screaming was not the yelling at each other as so often is the case with anchoring couples. In fact several different cruisers have commented on how well we are able to communicate while we are doing the anchor dance. Gold star for us.

Anyway, once successfully re anchored, Amy went back to bed and I stood anchor watch. By 7 am the sun was up and we could see how rough the anchorage had gotten. I definitely cannot recommend Allens Cay as a good anchorage in a norther.

We spent most of the morning and afternoon on the shore right behind our boat reading books off the hideously rocking mother ship. By early afternoon the wind abated and we were able to return home.

We were both tired and did nothing for the rest of the day

Monday, December 13, 2004 - Allens Cay, Allens Cay, Exumas

We slept in late, still trying to recover from the weather yesterday. Once awake, I made breakfast taco's while Amy slept and Maggie ate bananas. She has this real thing for bananas.

After breakfast taco's I collected the morning weather broadcast off the SSB. It sounds like tomorrow will be a good time to get our of Dodge. Most of the other boats, in fact all but two left this morning for points south, but there is absolutely no wind, so they will be motoring. We sailing purists are waiting til tomorrow.

We actually cleaned up around the boat today. Amy chased dust bunnies inside and I rebuilt two turning blocks on the main sail control. Maggie helped me by chasing the 1000 ball bearings around the cockpit.

Early this afternoon we headed back out onto the reef for some more Fish Shopping. Right off the bat we were greeted by a herd of Schoolmasters. I followed a tasty looking morsel around for about 5 minutes and finally caught him unaware.

KAPOWIE ! I shot from about 8 feet away and scored a tail hit. Unfortunately, my three headed prong spear tip couldn't hold this fish and he thrashed his way off. Thats the third time I have lost a fish on this tip.

I think I am going to switch over to the single tip spear that has those levers that won't let the fish come off. This trident style tip is ok, but unless you score a head shot the fish seem to have a pretty good chance to get off.

After that loss, I was extra careful about picking my shots. I managed to get the spear to stick into an 18 inch Big Eyed Toro. Once he was bagged and in the dinghy, I dove back down to look things over and I found the exact same fish, in the exact same spot.

Whoa, de ja vu. Another head shot landed another 18 Big Eyed Toro. Those two proved to be the extent of our fish today as a 7 foot reef shark showed up and we decided to pack it in.

The shark showed no interest in us at all, but we didn't want to press our luck.

We had happy hour on our neighbors Richie and Liz boat named Remedy and it was fun. Afterwards, it was Big Eyed Toro fritters for dinner and then to bed.

Tuesday, December 14, 2004 - Normans Key, , Exumas

We finally left Allen Cay today. We intended on going all the way down to Sampson Cay, but the wind forgot to show up and rather than motor all day, we decided to duck into Normans Cay.

On the way down to Normans, I managed to snag another Bar Jack. This time we caught him on the Alaskan Squid Lure, which is one that Jim and I bought in Bella Bella, British Columbia. See Jim, it does work.

Normans Cay used to belong to some drug lord named Lehder. I think the U.S. sent a covert force down here and stomped his butt into the ground. There is even the remains of a drug running plane in the lagoon.

There is not much life on Norman's but it is very pretty and seems well protected. Another Norther is expected to hit tomorrow, so we are trying to find somewhere safe to hide.

We spent the day lounging on the boat and we went ashore in the afternoon to walk the island. On our way back to the dinghy we met another couple anchored here. Peter and Jaina are on board Talisman which is a 45 foot Tayana.

They are in the final three months of a four year circumnavigation and they had lots of good stories. We invited them over to our boat for cocktails at sunset and I made lobster quesadillas. They were a big hit.

The fish larder is now bare, so barring extreme weather tomorrow, I hope to resume the hunt

Wednesday, December 15, 2004 - Normans Key, , Exumas

We are currently hiding in Normans Cay. Another Norther is expected starting tonight. What is it with all this shitty weather?

We spent the morning readying the boat for another blow and then spent the afternoon reading books on shore at the ruins of an old yacht club because the boat is already rolling pretty badly.

This evening we had snack foods for dinner and turned in early. Overall, I would say today sucked.

Thursday, December 16, 2004 - Normans Key, , Exumas

The wind continues to howl and this anchorage continues to suck.

We spent the majority of the day a shore again reading more books and hiding from the evil swell that permeates our anchorage. I cannot recommend this place as a good anchorage either in a string Norther.

The only little bar and burger establishment on this island of 65 people was open today, so we went with the folks off of a couple of the cruising boats for a burger and a beer.

The food was ok, the service blew, and the company was so so. It's really getting both of us down how old everybody acts here. I mean, I know they are a little older, but I am getting tired of being the focal point of conversation with these people.

"My grand kids are your age. How did you two get out here in the first place. Are you sure your old enough to be out here?" Etc, etc." Stuff it Grandpa.

This evening we went to dinner on board Talisman with Peter and Ginna. They made spaghetti and it was very good. We have really enjoyed spending a few days with these guys. They have a lot of stories to tell and its nice to hear someone who has circumnavigated tell stories about how much fun it was rather than the 50 foot, 17 day storm variety we get from most people.

Also, on the international black market front, I traded our old. unused wi-fi adapter to the Talisman's for two cases of Venezuelan mini beers that they smuggled in from South America. The mini beers sell for 18 cents a can in Venezuela, but here in the Bahamas a case of regular 355 ml cans is 40 - 45 bucks. I think everyone was happy with this trade.

Unfortunately the Talisman's are heading north back towards the states and we are not. They are one of the cooler couples we have met thus far and rank right up there with Richard in overall fun factor.

We said our goodbyes after dinner and Amy and I returned to the mother ship and got her ready to leave. We hope to sail down to Compass Cay tomorrow and find somewhere to hide from yet another cold front that is scheduled to hit us Sunday evening with winds over 40 knots !

The weather here still blows.